Simmer the pork with the onion, 2 garlic cloves and 1 teaspoon of the salt in water to cover, 2 hours, until it shreds under a fork. Keep the cooking liquid.

Toast the ancho and guajillo chiles in a dry pan 20 to 30 seconds a side, until they smell sweet and go pliable. Do not let them darken or they turn bitter.

Soak the toasted chiles in hot water 20 minutes, then blend with the remaining garlic, the cumin and 1 cup of the pork liquid until completely smooth.

Shred the pork, stir in the chile sauce, and simmer 10 minutes until thick with no loose liquid. Cool completely.

Soak 30 corn husks in hot water until pliable, about 30 minutes, then drain and pat them dry.

For the masa, beat the lard with the baking powder and remaining salt for 3 to 5 minutes, until it is pale, light and visibly fluffy.

Add the masa harina alternately with the warm broth, beating continuously, until the dough is the texture of thick frosting and spreads without crumbling.

{'Test it': 'drop half a teaspoon of masa into a cup of cold water. If it floats, it is aerated enough. If it sinks, beat 2 minutes more and test again.'}

Spread about 3 tablespoons of masa across the wide half of each dry husk in a rectangle, leaving the narrow end bare. Spoon filling down the centre.

Fold the long sides of the husk so the masa wraps around the filling, then fold the narrow empty end up. Stand the tamales fold down in a steamer basket.

Steam, covered, over simmering water for 1.5 to 2 hours, topping up the water as needed. They are done when the masa pulls cleanly away from the husk.

Rest 15 minutes off the heat before unwrapping. Hot from the steamer the masa is still soft and will stick.